Yves Saint Laurent’s Iconic Influence

The 1966 Le Smoking tuxedo jacket by Yves Saint Laurent stands as one of the most iconic pieces in fashion history. This groundbreaking tuxedo jacket for women, featuring satin lapels and sharp shoulders, has become a powerful symbol of liberation and revolution.

Paolo Sorrentino’s Tribute to Naples

Paolo Sorrentino’s latest film, “Parthenope,” serves as a heartfelt homage to his hometown of Naples. Centered around the theme of “missed youth,” the film follows a young woman, portrayed by newcomer Celeste Dalla Porta, who embodies the spirit of the Neapolitan people, also known as “Parthenopeans.” The narrative traces her evolution from youth to middle age, with her fashion reflecting this journey—from vibrant oranges and bright hues in her youth to more subdued tones in her later years.

Costume Design Collaboration

As the film unfolds, costume designer Carlo Poggioli notes that Sorrentino had a clear vision for the visual storytelling. While Poggioli crafted many of Parthenope’s outfits, Sorrentino sought the expertise of Saint Laurent to delve deeper into the character’s psyche. The brand’s creative director, Anthony Vaccarello, played a crucial role in shaping her wardrobe, providing pieces that complemented Poggioli’s designs.

Timeless Fashion for a Timeless Story

In their discussions, Sorrentino recognized Vaccarello’s vintage repertoire as the perfect match for the film’s aesthetic. He expressed a desire for the fashion to possess a timeless quality while remaining authentic to the film’s period and narrative.

A Perfect Partnership

Poggioli concurs, stating that collaborating with Saint Laurent was an incredible experience. He emphasized, “We discussed the colors and shapes extensively.”

Symbolism in Fashion

In a pivotal scene, Parthenope, now in her thirties, wears the iconic tuxedo jacket, which serves as a powerful visual metaphor for her current life stage, underscoring her quest for independence and freedom.

Custom Creations for Authenticity

According to Poggioli, every fashion piece worn by the character was meticulously recreated by Vaccarello. He stated, “We didn’t use any archive pieces… Everything was made from scratch.” This includes the iconic dinner jacket, with Poggioli noting, “Anthony had cutters and tailors dedicated to our production.” Saint Laurent even sourced period-accurate fabrics to ensure authenticity, including for the tuxedo jacket.

Logistics of Fashion Production

All fittings took place in Paris before being transported to Naples for filming.

Additional Creations

Vaccarello also crafted a stunning jewel-encrusted ivory piece, a black satin evening gown, and a gold lamé cape paired with a matching gown, further enriching the film’s visual narrative.

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